tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38494831827814019732024-02-06T19:01:47.718-08:00Mustard and MarmaladeVirginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-27188787185650462132012-10-25T14:50:00.000-07:002012-10-25T14:57:39.833-07:00Chutney Ties the Meal TogetherHello condiment people!<br />
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Yesterday was one of those "let's buy a roasted chicken for dinner" days. But I can never leave it at that. To me, roasted chicken always begs for a little chutney on the side -- something with a sweet/tangy kick and a slightly chunky texture to savor with each bite. Add your favorite rice (I favor basic wild rice, <a href="http://www.lundberg.com/products/rice/gourmet_rice_blends/Lundberg_Wild_Blend%C2%AE.aspx">Lundberg Wild Blend</a>, or a brown or white jasmine) and roasted vegetables, and you've got a standard comfort menu with minimal effort.<br />
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I've eaten all the homemade chutneys friends have so kindly shared over the past year, and I didn't make any of my own this summer, so I'm a loser in that realm. But, here's a store-bought find I have to share. Just purchased on a whim when I bought the chicken, this may be one of my favorite chutneys ever. <b><a href="http://www.stonewallkitchen.com/">Stonewall Kitchen's Old Farmhouse Chutney</a> </b>absolutely, positively deserves its "Outstanding Savory Condiment Winner" emblem (missing in this photo) from The Specialty Food Show. </div>
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Just as the "Dude's" rug "tied the room together" in the <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118715/">Big Lebowski</a>, the Old Farmhouse tied this meal together in its own exquisite little way. Based on apples, it also includes cranberries, peaches, and apricots. Cider and balsamic vinegar? Yes -- both. Then there are the ample mustard seeds, roasted garlic and ginger root, a little curry, a little chili pepper... all in all the blend of flavors might be likened to a modern apple-based mince pie filling that's gone around the globe and been tarted up.<br />
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I found the chutney at the downtown Salt Lake City <a href="http://www.harmonsgrocery.com/">Harmon's</a>, but it is widely available in supermarkets, or online of course.<br />
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<i>(P.S. no one I write about on this blog sponsors or pays me. If I tout a brand name it's because it's a personal favorite -- that's all.)</i>Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-52464350110455091402012-10-17T12:58:00.001-07:002012-10-21T08:30:01.641-07:00Ode to Pickapeppa<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">I love you in a marinade. I love you in beef stew. Splashed
on fried bananas? Yes, I like that too.
But I’ll pass on pouring over cream cheese, as I’ve seen others do.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">OK, enough of that. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">I was just thinking about Pickapeppa -- one of
the absolute best supermarket condiments around. A blend of cane vinegar,
sugar, tomatoes, onions, raisins, sea salt, ginger, peppers, garlic, cloves,
black pepper, thyme, mangoes and orange peel (whew!), it’s got to be great,
right? Such a terrific melange of ingredients, and it’s aged in oak barrels. Quite the
bargain at around $3 a bottle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamgSkdL8olYVojR3okeMU4LvszYQNnA94W7VjriQgh79Y9EM7OfwdrEcCwAsGmKMkB0MmdQoIcGKWXUhihDj94CLMOrQmrcqBjsKeUyLp9iTW1Dk1v6vpiIjDUdkR5nHpiYXgUg0Eq5xi/s1600/pj_image_sf_default.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="105" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamgSkdL8olYVojR3okeMU4LvszYQNnA94W7VjriQgh79Y9EM7OfwdrEcCwAsGmKMkB0MmdQoIcGKWXUhihDj94CLMOrQmrcqBjsKeUyLp9iTW1Dk1v6vpiIjDUdkR5nHpiYXgUg0Eq5xi/s400/pj_image_sf_default.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">I was awakened to the glories of this savory sauce from
Shooter’s Hill Jamaica at the Balboa Café, waaaay back in the 1980s in San
Francisco. There it sat, a small bottle with its classic red and green label with
the bird on it, just waiting to be poured on the amazing (and still on the
menu!) Balboa Burger. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">One taste of Pickapeppa mingling with that perfectly medium-rare, totally sexy, juicy burger on a baguette piled high with caramelized onions and I was
forever hooked. It was, and remains, one of the best combinations I’ve ever
tasted. I’d marry it if I could. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">That’s how much I love Pickapeppa. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--EndFragment-->Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-78681535165661622372012-10-03T13:50:00.001-07:002012-10-04T12:46:42.584-07:00Dusky Honey, Watermelon Jam, & Fig Mostarda<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="color: #535353; font-family: Arial;">It’s sort of been like Christmas in October as I’ve had the opportunity to
taste more extraordinary condiments from the Lake Garda region of Italy, via
Laney Sachs and her online import shop, <a href="http://www.ortensiablu.com/">Ortensia Blu</a>. Last week it was all
about <a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3849483182781401973#editor/target=post;postID=3364505456640306451">Mostarda Senepata</a>. Here are a few more hard-to-find delicacies she's gathered. All would make great gifts. But if I were you, I'd order some to keep, too. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: #535353; font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5dzSshE5HTXJCMyD8oBnAtH0uozKf9DB-hPH9KXFX8CwG3qdTcrkZ9yTE47KTziHjDJVQTy8W07c11iVaaJEtqVfy6BG7Fq75vVkv9tfLymhGJat7nR1Q8VeUUD5t2-GyolGM0ctTInFa/s1600/Melata_large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5dzSshE5HTXJCMyD8oBnAtH0uozKf9DB-hPH9KXFX8CwG3qdTcrkZ9yTE47KTziHjDJVQTy8W07c11iVaaJEtqVfy6BG7Fq75vVkv9tfLymhGJat7nR1Q8VeUUD5t2-GyolGM0ctTInFa/s200/Melata_large.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #535353; font-family: Arial;">Dusky (in a beautiful
way) Honey</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial;">Ortensia
Blu offers this romantic description for Miele del garda Bresciano also known as Melata: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“Honeydew (Melata) Honey is named after the
beads of nectar that glisten in the morning dew.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial;">The
thing is, that “morning dew” comes not from the nectar of wildflower blossoms,
but from sap. This sap is a result, as one source put it, of “a splendid team
effort involving bees and other insects. As they pierce the bark of fir and
chestnut trees (among others) they release the essence of the tree—known as the
melata,” </span><span style="color: #535353; font-family: Arial;">spreading
it over the surrounding flowers and leaves. The bees collect this sap with its
aromatic, dusky character and high mineral content and transform it into this
rare, highly prized honey. </span><br />
<span style="color: #535353; font-family: Arial;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #535353; font-family: Arial;">D</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial;">ark amber, it has a lusty, molasses-y flavor profile. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial;">Enjoy
it as you would enjoy any great honey. I actually like it on oatmeal, and it’s
a classic with figs (roasted or not) and cheese for dessert.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyEGo8_aZmhb6eeO68uuw0XH-n2S5aJ2vgW0y9QTU08RYJJ_YqNkFrl-XR9WuhM6ITa90Xo2dJ3phKw7TOX4VotASyRcqLjHlhWJC5PhYXXegICoskcTlcth07HorNdJZR4U8rtyoeJTan/s1600/Watermelonjam_large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyEGo8_aZmhb6eeO68uuw0XH-n2S5aJ2vgW0y9QTU08RYJJ_YqNkFrl-XR9WuhM6ITa90Xo2dJ3phKw7TOX4VotASyRcqLjHlhWJC5PhYXXegICoskcTlcth07HorNdJZR4U8rtyoeJTan/s200/Watermelonjam_large.jpg" width="200" /></a><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #535353; font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></b><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #535353; font-family: Arial;">A Most Unusual Jam<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #535353; font-family: Arial;"><b><br /></b></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #535353; font-family: Arial;">Conserva de Anguria
Bianca</span></b><span style="color: #535353; font-family: Arial;">
is a watermelon jam. New to me, its flavor sits on the border of earthy and
refreshing. Light and delicate, the jam resonates with the flavor of summer melon,
but it’s not overly sweet. I found myself fantasizing about spreading it
between layers of a vanilla poppyseed cake. It would also shine on biscuits or
cornbread. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #535353; font-family: Arial;">Beyond
its flavor, what might strike you most about this shimmering, translucent green
jam is the appearance of slippery red watermelon seeds suspended in the jar. I
don’t suppose it would hurt you to swallow them, but I kind of like rolling
them around my mouth and then letting them fly out over the deck when I’m
alone. In “polite” (a rare occurrence in my world) company I would simply let
them slide back onto a spoon or into my napkin. If you spread the jam on toast
or whatever, you would, of course, remove the seeds. But the fact that the producer
left them in the jam makes me really happy. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: #535353; font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Mostarda de Fichi</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Completely
different in form and color from the firm jelly-like Mostarda Senepata in last week’s
post, this spicy/sweet mostarda is what I think of when I think of the idea of “adult”
sugarplums dancing in my head. Divine. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Petite white
figs are suspended in a lemony yellow syrup and the flavor is a cross between
spicy/hot and sweet. Traditionally, mostardas are served with “boiled meats” –
something that always comes up in references but doesn’t really sound all that
good. I like them with cheeses, of course – on a platter with salty cured
meats, and with grilled meats of any kind. I could also see enjoying this
particular fig mostarda with nicely caramelized roasted vegetables, such as carrots or
Brussels sprouts. I’d drizzle a bit of the syrup on the veg’s and sprinkled
chopped fig over them – not too much, just enough to get the occasional bite. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">* * * </span></div>
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<!--EndFragment-->Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-33645054566403064512012-09-26T12:46:00.001-07:002012-09-26T12:53:44.899-07:00From Italy with Love: Mostarda Senepata<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hello, dear condiment blog, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">How I have neglected you over the
long, sizzling summer. But now, with autumn in full flush and chestnuts about
to drop from the gnarled trees outside my window, I’m back to regale you with
some exquisite condiments from far away.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDcXbe29JBtx8By-K51LEbV5OgT3M2jBi4YlHZPlwz1M6FpEdGp1LpvCK56waZqePWZDPyJufuOJHnebzVTMTfMmcSFG1vYTqw9X60qCC4qhBIqsCMvuTl3kwZKJ4Q8_gGUjap0W4JW4W0/s1600/window_with_flowers_medium.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDcXbe29JBtx8By-K51LEbV5OgT3M2jBi4YlHZPlwz1M6FpEdGp1LpvCK56waZqePWZDPyJufuOJHnebzVTMTfMmcSFG1vYTqw9X60qCC4qhBIqsCMvuTl3kwZKJ4Q8_gGUjap0W4JW4W0/s1600/window_with_flowers_medium.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUh5SUfripeU6JEm7gMuszSqS1ifuRy8eIHasWBNixd8OpWRYob-76ifEOU5-aLcjTBJXAZgBYsmQHvuiqDKSStA-4bqy7vggwy8as-js44zBCRuQ9O66LghlIUVNuXlcqua82b0lmelg4/s1600/boats_medium.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUh5SUfripeU6JEm7gMuszSqS1ifuRy8eIHasWBNixd8OpWRYob-76ifEOU5-aLcjTBJXAZgBYsmQHvuiqDKSStA-4bqy7vggwy8as-js44zBCRuQ9O66LghlIUVNuXlcqua82b0lmelg4/s1600/boats_medium.jpg" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The <a href="http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/italy/9132902/Lake-Garda-Italy-the-glories-of-Italys-largest-lake.html">Lake Garda</a> region of Italy, actually. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A great friend of mine recently returned
from a culinary excursion around this region with her friend, Laney Sachs of <a href="http://www.ortensiablu.com/">Ortensia Blu.com</a><b>. </b>Laney imports carefully curated collection of Italian edibles and wares to the U.S. and offers them through her web site. My friend kindly decided
that a condiment lover such as I needed a taste of a few of the edibles Laney has discovered -- many of them through the Manestrini family of <i><a href="http://www.manestrini.it/">Azienda Agricola Manestrini</a></i>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifCwueL6J8oACjFNBXBiIF5mOhh_ln8EOXSyNPOQVtiOX9lI4FHvpKdRd1hbWnudQbwYBMRrkZ8ztvJyF8_jZ-zY8wMmZCRIfHlmeS8skQPnefXxwqH9PehBYy81VtMIdDMeDoVCZN3Ylq/s1600/sr-manestrini_medium.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifCwueL6J8oACjFNBXBiIF5mOhh_ln8EOXSyNPOQVtiOX9lI4FHvpKdRd1hbWnudQbwYBMRrkZ8ztvJyF8_jZ-zY8wMmZCRIfHlmeS8skQPnefXxwqH9PehBYy81VtMIdDMeDoVCZN3Ylq/s1600/sr-manestrini_medium.jpg" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Signor Egidio Manestrini</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The Manestrinis have lived on
their family compound overlooking stunning Lake Garda -- with the Alps to the
north and a Mediterranean microclimate at the south -- for over 150 years. They
started producing olive oil from their own trees and made a huge success of it.
Over the years and through the joys of relationships developed with small
family businesses in the region, they expanded into private label honeys,
sauces, jams and mostarda. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #343434;">Think <a href="http://www.slowfoodusa.org/">Slow Food</a> in action. Old
food ways are preserved, new palates get to taste the results and the cycle
continues. <o:p></o:p></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #343434;">I was happy to give a few of the products a try. Here's the first, more to follow. </span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From the Andrini family in
Brescia, this quince mostarda is an extraordinary variation on the syrupy
mostardas you may have experienced. (Mostarda is definitely not mustard, but it
does combine the intense spices of mustard oil, or essence, or powder with the
sweet flavors of candied fruit. Read a detailed description <a href="http://lacucinaitalianamagazine.com/ingredients/mostarda">here</a>.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Andrini version arrives in a
handmade wooden box. Open it and discover a jewel-like, firm disk, with a reddish/brown color and a
jelly-like texture. Based on an 18th century recipe,
this glorious condiment is a blend of quince, candied orange, sugar and mustard. Its flavor is both subtle and complex, sweet and spicy, with the unmistakable heat of the mustard essence rising up as it melts on your tongue. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Slice it thin and fan it out on a
platter with your favorite cheeses, salumi, or other meats. I like to make a
little open face sandwich of the cheese and mostarda and experience the soft heat and spice of the mostarda with the texture of the cheese, with or without
a cracker. As a condiment, this mostarda compliments rather than overpowers any pairing. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I also tried it alongside some gorgeous grass-fed lamb ham and lamb
pate, both lovingly crafted by Frody Volgger at <a href="http://www.caputosdeli.com/new-page/">Caputo’s Butcher Shop</a> in Salt Lake City. Let's just say the combinations were brilliant. As close to Italy as a person can hope to come while sitting in the Rocky Mountains.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You could also simply
layer this mostarda on a favorite sandwich – such as roasted turkey breast with arugula
on a chewy roll. Or, roll it up with prosciutto. And, apologies to sweet membrillo, a quince-based cousin, but Mostarda Senepata would make a great spicy substitute for membrillo in this <a href="http://www.caputosdeli.com/new-page/">Chow.com recipe</a> for a watercress, almond, manchego salad. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Someday I hope I get to explore the region of Lake Garda myself. Until then, I treasure these authentic tastes of Italy. The quality is extraordinary and the prices are absolutely reasonable. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #343434; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Photos courtesy Ortensiablu.com</span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-30844731755419733492012-07-18T15:15:00.000-07:002012-07-18T15:15:56.411-07:00Citrus Mignonette Recipe from Grappa Restaurant<br />
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Much as I adore the unadulterated, briny liquor of a freshly
shucked, perfectly chilled oyster, it’s nearly impossible for me to resist the
siren call of a simple mignonette. Just a teaspoon or so splashed atop said
oyster is enough to ignite some kind of sensual magic, brightening and
elevating the taste of the ocean, the sharp chill and silky texture of a plump
little morsel.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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A couple of weeks ago, on a sultry summer evening I tasted a
new (to me) mignonette variation at an Italian wine tasting event hosted by <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.winebow.com/">Winebow Inc</a></b>. and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.parkcity.com/">Park City’s</a></b> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.billwhiterestaurantgroup.com/#!__grappa">Grappa Restaurant</a></b>. It took place on the tree house-like deck at the top of
Grappa’s steep outdoor staircase (from which various intimate patios and decks
may be reached). This setting is as close to a hillside town in Italy as you’ll ever get
in these parts -- especially
in summer or early fall when the town's little Main Street shimmers below and the
hillsides are lush, all around -- so enjoy it while you can.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj66Lr-XHgdZc-_XsMqLKBe7cjQQUJofWekJt1d3dmVxoFk6aVJZ83tCyVN1_edMKxPCBHAybOBvO8zhhsoJ6C-yysrm9yCHXLuvSEaLX1-xYfpm3LRtG3Z6TL-y-8_jWGWFZhjObLhX3I_/s1600/kumamotos+in+spring_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj66Lr-XHgdZc-_XsMqLKBe7cjQQUJofWekJt1d3dmVxoFk6aVJZ83tCyVN1_edMKxPCBHAybOBvO8zhhsoJ6C-yysrm9yCHXLuvSEaLX1-xYfpm3LRtG3Z6TL-y-8_jWGWFZhjObLhX3I_/s320/kumamotos+in+spring_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo from Hog Island Oyster Co.</td></tr>
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But back to the oysters and mignonette. Glass
of delicate <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.winebow.com/wineDetail.php?id=900">Zardetto Prosecco Brut Traviso</a> </b>in hand, I spied them: fresh-shucked oysters on ice, calling my name. Alongside the bivalves, three
mignonettes in separate bowls, each with a small spoon. One was the classic, one was a citrus version and the other boldly
offered a hint of lavender. <o:p></o:p></div>
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A classic mignonette generally consists of finely minced
shallots, and good vinegar – be it red wine, white wine, champagne or sherry
and some cracked white or black peppercorns. Variations abound, but because I’m
pretty much of a purist when it comes to my favorite things, I usually just
walk away from them – though the occasional jalapeno-spiked version is fun. (But
if you’re thinking balsamic vinegar…then, no, that would just be <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">wrong</i>.) </div>
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Grappa’s classic mignonette was
lovely -- nicely balanced and just what you would expect. The Lavender didn’t work for my taste, but the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Citrus Mignonette</b> was perfect. Laced with a bit of honey and
reliant on lemon and orange zest as well as diced orange segments, it struck
all the right notes. With the citrus and tropical fruit notes of the
Prosecco, the bright sunshine and the chilled oysters, the perfectly balanced
condiment was unforgettable. Chef Derek Gherkins was kind enough to share his recipe so I could share it with you. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Grappa's Citrus Mignonette</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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1each Zest of an orange finely chopped</div>
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1 each Zest of a lemon finely chopped</div>
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2 Tablespoons Minced Shallots</div>
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¾ Cup White Wine Vinegar<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 tsp Honey</div>
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1 each Orange supremes small diced ( Use the above
orange with out pith)<o:p></o:p></div>
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¼ Cup Orange Juice<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 small pinch Kosher Salt<o:p></o:p></div>
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Method:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Place minced orange zest, lemon
zest, and minced shallots in a mixing bowl. Heat white wine vinegar and honey
together in a small sauce pot and pour over zests and shallots. Let cool. Once
mixture has cooled add orange juice and diced orange supremes. (To make orange
supremes peel off outer pith of the zested orange with a knife, then cut individual
segments out with knife from between the pith, yielding just the meat of the
orange.) Add a small pinch of kosher salt to taste. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Mignonette is best prepared the day
before to allow time for the flavors to come together.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Recipe by:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Chef de Cuisine Grappa Italian Restaurant, Derek Gherkins<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sous Chef Grappa Italian Restaurant, Pat Mcshea <o:p></o:p></div>
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Want to know more about oysters in
general? <a href="http://www.hogislandoysters.com/">Hog Island</a> is an excellent source. <o:p></o:p></div>Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-90520920045324778952012-06-13T11:52:00.003-07:002012-06-13T12:02:55.189-07:00Harissa = Happiness<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuoILpsnh1Xif98izxyE1IG7nWYHiELVlMVDE5hglZigluqfkgrFKMkulLB-SAuAMkaToyv0eBhreoC9zj-Tv1zidutbxJmOVbaNzmqZ0VCTAMorybQMOSA-uMxVEKQmfpguenvuYjGnjm/s1600/harissa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuoILpsnh1Xif98izxyE1IG7nWYHiELVlMVDE5hglZigluqfkgrFKMkulLB-SAuAMkaToyv0eBhreoC9zj-Tv1zidutbxJmOVbaNzmqZ0VCTAMorybQMOSA-uMxVEKQmfpguenvuYjGnjm/s200/harissa.jpg" width="160" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">What
are the odds that on the day before I planned to post something about the
“Tabasco of Tunisia,” otherwise known as harissa, there would be a nice little
NPR blog on the same subject? Well, there was, and <a href="http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/06/04/154293245/harissa-the-story-behind-north-africas-favorite-hot-sauce">here it is</a>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">A spicy, brilliant red chili paste, harissa has been dubbed <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/20/dining/20united.html?pagewanted=all">sriracha’s</a> (aka rooster sauce) cousin as well as the mustard
or ketchup of Africa, served just about everywhere on everything. The blend of red-chili-peppers, olive oil, coriander and sometimes, caraway is actually
more far more nuanced than sriracha, infinitely more interesting than Tabasco,
and as for ketchup? Meh. No resemblance. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Versions
vary widely, of course. Some include mint and others add red bell pepper and
tomato. The texture varies, too -- from a smooth paste to a chunkier version –
as in Mustapha’s Moroccan Harissa, my favorite, made with dashes of red bell
pepper and tomato in addition to the chili peppers. Bottom line, harissa
delivers a complex heat – one that resonates rather than just knocking your
tastebuds out. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">I
wish I could say I discovered a love of the fiery condiment while on an excursion
on the back of a camel in an exotic setting, but, must admit my introduction was
in the First World setting of Williams Sonoma where the jar of
Mustapha’s just looked so pretty I bought one for a gift and one for me. I
proceeded to become addicted – not an unusual reaction as far as I can
tell. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">What
to do with harissa:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Mix with mayonnaise, spread on lamb burgers or hamburgers, along with piles of
arugula. Or, on a sausage sandwich.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Stir
into black bean soup or chile along with mascarpone or crema.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Add
to a Bloody Mary, to taste<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Mix
into egg salad or deviled egg filling, and of course my standard, “on eggs!”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Use to f</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">lavor curries, stews, soups</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Make this Moroccan style carrot salad I found on Chowhound: </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Simmer slices of carrots in water with a bay leaf. Drain and combine with olive oil and harissa while still warm, then refrigerate. Serve at room temperature, garnished with any of the following: chopped mint, chopped cilantro, olives, feta, chopped <a href="http://www.mustardmarmalade.blogspot.com/2012/04/normal-0-false-false-false-en-us-ja-x_24.html">preserved lemon</a>. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">Finally, if you want to make your own, here’s
Claudia Roden’s recipe from <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/The-Book-Middle-Eastern-Food/dp/0375405062">The New Book of Middle-Eastern Food.</a></i></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 ounces dried hot red chili peppers (stems and seeds removed) <br /><br />4 cloves garlic, peeled <br /><br />1 teaspoon ground caraway <br /><br />1 teaspoon ground coriander <br /><br />1/2 teaspoon salt</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> extra-virgin olive oil</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Soak
the chili peppers in water for 30 minutes, until soft. Drain and pound with the
garlic, spices, and a little salt with a pestle and mortar, or blend in a food
processor, adding just enough oil, by the tablespoon, to make a soft paste.
Press into a jar and cover with oil. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">This
famous and formidable chili paste goes into many North African, especially
Tunisian, dishes. It keeps very well for many weeks in the refrigerator of
covered with oil. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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* * * </div>Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-72247136015379179122012-06-06T09:11:00.000-07:002012-06-06T14:22:03.548-07:00Caffe Niche Chimichurri Sauce Recipe<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p><br /></o:p></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 16px;">I</span><span class="Apple-style-span">f you’ve tasted chef Ethan
Lappe’s delectable elk burger at Salt Lake’s </span><span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="http://www.caffeniche.com/">Caffe Niche </a></span><span class="Apple-style-span">(or as a chef’s
special on the </span><span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="http://www.chowtruck.com/">Chow Truck</a></span><span class="Apple-style-span">), you know that chimichurri sauce can make a
burger sing.</span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisrMnLcLRzG48pWaWlS7SfRW9TUJZjalc5223FR5ihR2Aj8fZqZBexUxb3Vs32cwZQ-dGHHMy-SDRxS6hvNrd2jAp17iUyRx-zKSfALXcFUaC2lM7kf3DxZWLgaaEOBMvI1dZB_g4W6Emo/s1600/bar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisrMnLcLRzG48pWaWlS7SfRW9TUJZjalc5223FR5ihR2Aj8fZqZBexUxb3Vs32cwZQ-dGHHMy-SDRxS6hvNrd2jAp17iUyRx-zKSfALXcFUaC2lM7kf3DxZWLgaaEOBMvI1dZB_g4W6Emo/s320/bar.jpg" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The inviting bar at Caffe Niche</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Some people call this
condiment the “pesto of Argentina,” but that’s not quite right. It doesn’t call
for cheese and the texture is on the chunky side rather than smoothed out in a
food processor. Part of the appeal of this green parsley- (and, in this recipe,
also basil-) based condiment is the texture of the roughly chopped herbs.</div>
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Chef Lappe uses Champagne or
white wine vinegar in his recipe. “Red wine vinegar is more traditional, but
gives the sauce a brown tinge. “ he notes. “In the restaurant, I use
chimichurri sauce on our hanger steak, elk burger, or on top of roasted yams. I
love it on just about anything. The trick is to leave it at least overnight to
slightly pickle the onions and soften their heat.” To that I’d add, it’s also
nice swirled into soups or stews or spooned over eggs cooked any way. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgubULf2k34BCgfvHoD3pbO9WqtAIE1VzshZ6vhnjXWD6co5qVCIQOQN60G-bW_LqneRof_zzBzGFr4PGmTbpBA_nZ-3Mxz4pHcGJHYESpW0PrTOdlnOzkNOzWfR8dVRTJfeTxNop-3L4c5/s1600/parsley.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgubULf2k34BCgfvHoD3pbO9WqtAIE1VzshZ6vhnjXWD6co5qVCIQOQN60G-bW_LqneRof_zzBzGFr4PGmTbpBA_nZ-3Mxz4pHcGJHYESpW0PrTOdlnOzkNOzWfR8dVRTJfeTxNop-3L4c5/s200/parsley.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Caffe Niche Chimichurri<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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1 yellow onion, roughly chopped <o:p></o:p></div>
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2 cloves garlic, minced<o:p></o:p></div>
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½ cup roughly chopped parsley<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 tablespoon dried oregano<o:p></o:p></div>
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½ teaspoon red chili flakes<o:p></o:p></div>
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10-12 fresh basil leaves (or ¼ cup, chopped and packed)</div>
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¼ cup Champagne or white wine vinegar<o:p></o:p></div>
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¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper<o:p></o:p></div>
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½ teaspoon salt<o:p></o:p></div>
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½ cup canola oil<o:p></o:p></div>
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Thoroughly combine all ingredients
in a bowl, cover and refrigerate overnight to develop and soften flavors. <o:p></o:p></div>
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* * * <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-74123269059927236232012-05-29T07:37:00.001-07:002012-05-29T10:14:12.760-07:00Random Shopping @ Black Cherry Market<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Most people go grocery shopping with a list. That’s pretty basic, since it tends to help
ward off the sticker shock that comes with binges of impulse shopping. And of course it’s worse when you shop
hungry. But sometimes, I go list-less anyway. Like I just did on my first visit
to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.blackcherrymarket.com/">Black Cherry Market</a></b> in Salt Lake
City, a store you should know about if you love condiments and other delicious
surprises. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXD7jlq54WKlKf0qN7CCXVEDZvOdw2JY5VabRSl-qVggPg-K3Ui5nE844ZFQdfin6eCwdcLhYTIeGCsOZIXtxSD6U-Zi6V0z_FmCRYQdK85wUoL28h_9Ro3-b2KGxnf94SLq5_ab6v20kg/s1600/logo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="80" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXD7jlq54WKlKf0qN7CCXVEDZvOdw2JY5VabRSl-qVggPg-K3Ui5nE844ZFQdfin6eCwdcLhYTIeGCsOZIXtxSD6U-Zi6V0z_FmCRYQdK85wUoL28h_9Ro3-b2KGxnf94SLq5_ab6v20kg/s320/logo.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Open for about a year, this little Mediterranean market is a
clean, well-lighted place with wide aisles and a really nice vibe and, no
sticker shock. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here’s some of what I ended up with – totally random,
starting with two condiments.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUNoZFeLbkWIZF84uK-IEFn2aTiqB2pRJGTxeHJ7OrS541e1TDTXGjfZNwmuejKCXPeptmJMhDP20DbYmVd_xD-AgjK1jXOcH__Uta4DTqlM53uCfZbl3GCA6aOI_iqeLGsscAmshCkdeb/s1600/DSCN0097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUNoZFeLbkWIZF84uK-IEFn2aTiqB2pRJGTxeHJ7OrS541e1TDTXGjfZNwmuejKCXPeptmJMhDP20DbYmVd_xD-AgjK1jXOcH__Uta4DTqlM53uCfZbl3GCA6aOI_iqeLGsscAmshCkdeb/s320/DSCN0097.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Ararat Rose-Petal
Preserves from Armenia</b>. The frilly pink label tied over the lid of the fat
little jar was irresistible. I can’t wait to try the fragrant, sugary preserves on some old-fashioned
biscuits, or a croissant. Maybe with some rosé and goat cheese. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ2bcVTlGXtxb3wwwqDMX80wdf1WN7NmkfN4KzJpf6n9Z-c-0x8bTpBkHIi_qLBbbIP6LxhPvEgJFcuqtWyvrrlfvU5M6miiA8xxjLqDNZhu2SQN8qohZbcFelGv2DYIp3m3sLAxeClJ0X/s1600/images.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ2bcVTlGXtxb3wwwqDMX80wdf1WN7NmkfN4KzJpf6n9Z-c-0x8bTpBkHIi_qLBbbIP6LxhPvEgJFcuqtWyvrrlfvU5M6miiA8xxjLqDNZhu2SQN8qohZbcFelGv2DYIp3m3sLAxeClJ0X/s1600/images.jpeg" /></a><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Coriander Chutney.</b>
A staple at Indian restaurants everywhere, this seaweed green blend of cilantro
leaves, green chili, ginger, coconut, lemon juice, and cumin is a condiment
staple. Great on lamb burgers or alongside roasted lamb or chicken, super with a grilled steak, or swirled
into hot basmati rice or into plain Greek yogurt for a really good vegetable
dip. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Hearts of Palm</b> in
a jar. I know. Don’t get too excited.
But really, they are not that easy to find. The tin-can version tastes
of tin. I can’t wait to make the hearts of palm salad with blood orange from
The <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.canalhousecooking.com/">Canal House</a> Cookbook No. 6. <o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnBdvi19iUZeaVTapycpDC9Oc0a008Ysp8CjOFnjM-Rw7x1Kcj0xmawa58vUZ_sIu0_CNl5p17pli4x0BCU3f2QQsdKcCRzCtIy84dUeGyDc0p1biaA6-gDTKSq8jjbEn3yfzQo_aWAgqM/s1600/Saffron-Rosewater_th.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnBdvi19iUZeaVTapycpDC9Oc0a008Ysp8CjOFnjM-Rw7x1Kcj0xmawa58vUZ_sIu0_CNl5p17pli4x0BCU3f2QQsdKcCRzCtIy84dUeGyDc0p1biaA6-gDTKSq8jjbEn3yfzQo_aWAgqM/s1600/Saffron-Rosewater_th.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.mashtimalone.com/">Mashti Malone’s</a>
Pistachio Saffron Ice Cream </b>(and other flavors). From the famed Mashti Malone’s at Sunset and
LaBrea in LA, this is a find in Salt Lake City. Creamy, herbal and really good. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Two pounds of plump, preservative-free, pitted Deglet Noor dates were just $6. Perfect for a party appetizer if you wrap each date in a band of prosciutto. Sizzle under a broiler for a few minutes (watching carefully), turning once with tongs. Stick a sturdy wooden toothpick in each one while they’re hot and pass them around. Sweet, salty, simple (like <a href="http://www.delish.com/recipefinder/devils-on-horseback-recipe">Devil's on Horseback</a>, the easy version).</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In search of <a href="http://www.epicurious.com/tools/searchresults?search=recipes+using+pomegranate+molasses">pomegranate molasses</a>? Black Cherry carries several brands and that link will take you to all kinds of recipes with this staple of Mediterranean cooking. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Black Cherry also carries Halal meats and <a href="http://www.cmrbeef.com/"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Canyon Meadows Ranch</b></a> grass-fed beef from Altamont, UT. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Told you, this was random. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">* * * </span></div>
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<br /></div>Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-79671349742788965342012-05-22T09:43:00.000-07:002012-05-22T14:53:58.129-07:00Slide Ridge Honey Vinegar and CaCysir Honey Wine<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0IVYqj8WCfirUkPoek08CAoHSE1kkX-F85URopOtv-wAmL21JPmyRJLFucAdRZ0xOVcLU0cNEiMBqhuwagAjv41Cq8QbKlHqNpCxMcDlwaPgT-9cC9zLEp8bE5mNvHGov2JrTwnjD7tPs/s1600/DSCN0056.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0IVYqj8WCfirUkPoek08CAoHSE1kkX-F85URopOtv-wAmL21JPmyRJLFucAdRZ0xOVcLU0cNEiMBqhuwagAjv41Cq8QbKlHqNpCxMcDlwaPgT-9cC9zLEp8bE5mNvHGov2JrTwnjD7tPs/s200/DSCN0056.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Yes, I live in Utah, the Beehive State. You’d think that our
state symbol, the beehive, might have something to do with honey, but no. It’s
all about early pioneer industry. The thing is, Utah is not really a major
player in <a href="http://www.honey.com/nhb/media/press-kit/">honey production</a> – not by a long shot. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That’s not to say we don’t have some exceptional honey here
in the Beehive State. In fact, we may be home to some of the finest raw honey
produced anywhere if you consider </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.slideridgehoney.com/">Slide Ridge Honey</a></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> of Mendon, Utah. It's a small family operation that has recently expanded to offer a brilliant </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Honey Wine Vinegar</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> and a just-released </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">CaCysir Honey Wine. </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(pronounced ka--SIGH-sir - the Ca is for Cache Valley, where Slide Ridge resides. Cysir is a unique spelling for cyser, apple and honey wine)</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Last week I was lucky enough to be a part of a farm tour
hosted by <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.talisker.com/thecuisine.html">Talisker</a></b> and its executive
chef, John Murcko. We covered more than 300 miles visiting some of northern
Utah’s purveyors of local goods. Along the way, Slide Ridge Honey master Martin
James and his family hosted us for their “daily staff lunch,” a magical
homemade interlude served next to a garden, under shade trees just a stone’s
throw from pallets of honey and vats of soon-to-be honey wine.</span></div>
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</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">They dished up soft fresh rolls with a silky, runny honey
butter, a salad with Slide Ridge Honey Vinegar dressing and then plates of pot
roast, carrots and mashed potatoes. And for dessert, poached pears, homemade
salted caramel ice cream and glasses of viscous, amber Slide Ridge CaCysir
Honey Wine, just released. Look at those gorgeous legs.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div class="MsoNormal">
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CaCysir is a 100% local blend of juices from seven select apple
varieties, perfectly clean honey, and a hint of grapes. At 13.65% alcohol, it
also has a crisp acidity. To me, it evokes a bit of <i>tart tatin</i> rather than basic apple pie - quite extraordinary. Here’s what they say on the label:</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div class="MsoNormal">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The wine, priced just under $25, has just been released in a few of Utah’s
state run liquor stores, including: Snow Creek (Park City); Logan, Ogden-Wall St.; Holladay; Springville; and Hurricane. <b>BUT, I encourage you to ask for – OK, demand it? </b>-- it at
every big state wine and liquor store you visit – if this is your sort of delight. The supply is not huge, but the demand ought to be. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXg8n7VQ3DyEikmB116VARu9bFQChwahOSuHjcvv7dTDs45iBjxkZBm5Sbt-9qgHNyGC-gDWccWtE4026Cknq5Q4mVXR5dPjMlDyVBm1-nQDt-4DC6EuP421020HJIqiGkNe_1LaIhPEbk/s1600/Honey_Vinegar_slant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXg8n7VQ3DyEikmB116VARu9bFQChwahOSuHjcvv7dTDs45iBjxkZBm5Sbt-9qgHNyGC-gDWccWtE4026Cknq5Q4mVXR5dPjMlDyVBm1-nQDt-4DC6EuP421020HJIqiGkNe_1LaIhPEbk/s320/Honey_Vinegar_slant.jpg" width="247" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As for condiments, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Slide Ridge’s Honey Wine Vinegar </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">is more widely available. A
balance of sweet and tang, it is, of course, great as salad dressing but also
consider tossing a tablespoon over a bowl of oven-roasted, caramelized Brussels
sprouts or deglazing a pan after browning pork chops, or head to </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><a href="http://www.canyonsresort.com/dining.html">The Farm</a></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> or </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><a href="http://www.canyonsresort.com/dining.html">Bistro at Canyons</a></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> and find out what magic Talisker chefs are creating with it
this summer. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">* * * </span></div>
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<br />Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-14133808582662169702012-05-14T19:44:00.001-07:002012-05-16T12:06:37.408-07:00Spicy Balsamic Blueberry Chutney Recipe<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I’m a sucker for
single-subject cookbooks. Writers obsessed with a subject are the best because,
well, they are obsessed. They leave no stone unturned, no use of an ingredient
unexplored. They have license to travel to the far reaches of the world in
search of the source, to explore history, to find the best. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook</i> (1996,
Collins) by Meesha Halm is a case in point – a perfect one for condiment
lovers. Like so many of my books, it’s out of print, but there seem to be
plenty of used copies available online. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This pretty little book came
out a couple of decades after the “discovery” of balsamic vinegar in the U.S.
in the 1970s. You may know the story: Treasured, time-honored authentic Italian
condiment becomes ubiquitous American condiment – often bastardized and
cheapened, generally drizzled over fresh mozzarella, pizzas and salads
everywhere. But there’s a lot more to cooking with a decent, affordable balsamic.
Whether your tastes run to gazpacho, braised broccoli rape or savory
Mediterranean stew, this book dishes up the recipes, including a great section
on condiments, including chutney.<sub><o:p></o:p></sub></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That was Then<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A lot of us got very tired of
the balsamic vinegar craze. We wanted the good stuff, but, back then could only
afford the grocery store version, often called “Balsamic Vinegar of Modena” – a
sorry blend of coloring and thickeners – and maybe a little wine vinegar but no
actual grape must –the key ingredient in traditional balsamic. These blends are
mass-produced, both in Italy and in the U.S. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But as the balsamic love
continued, more American and Italian producers began making artisan versions
that, while far from the authentic balsamic, are excellent for more everyday
uses. Today, there are plenty of fine, affordable options out there. Bottom line,
when buying balsamic vinegar priced around $25 - $35 or so, read the label
carefully and look for grape must in the ingredient list, along with an
indication of age. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you’ve been lucky enough
to taste the occasional drop of the real thing – aged <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena, </i>and<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> aceto balsamico tradizionale di Reggio Emilia</i>, you know that at
its finest, it can taste of fine old port, fig and vanilla, toffee, caramel and
chocolate, resinous wood and herbs. So
complex and sensually exciting, it is often sipped from a tiny cup, all by
itself. (If you’re in Salt Lake City, <a href="http://www.libertyheightsfresh.com/">Liberty Heights Fresh</a> has a whole shelf
dedicated to such fine vinegars and offers some for tasting – just ask.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><sub><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p></sub><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Good Compromise for Cooking</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you can afford the real
thing, you’ll probably want to enjoy it on its own or with a minimum of other ingredients.
But if you want to spend less than $10 on balsamic vinegar for cooking, salad
dressings, or drizzling on sandwiches, <a href="http://www.caputosdeli.com/shopping/deta%20il/7-vinegar/flypage/37-antica-italia-ba%20lsamic-vinegar?sef=hcfp">Antica Italia Balsamic Vinegar</a> is a good
bet. It is made with grape must and aged in chestnut barrels, which is pretty
amazing for the price. At Caupto's Deli in Salt Lake City, it's the vinegar of choice for some fine sandwiches. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here are two things, beyond
salad dressings, that I like to do with a less expensive, but non-industrial
balsamic vinegar. One so simple it’s a little embarrassing, the other requiring
a little time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1. Pour about a cup of less expensive
balsamic vinegar, such as Antica, into a non-reactive saucepan, warm slowly
over low heat and let it reduce down to a syrupy consistency. Drizzle over
grilled meats or fish, on a fresh pear, walnut and mache salad, or over a
platter of sliced ripe figs and some aged Parmigiano Reggiano. That last treatment is a classic for the very
fine balsamic vinegars, as well. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2. Make Blueberry Chutney<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Adapted from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook</i>, this
gorgeous take on chutney is spiced with jalapeno. The recipe called for frozen
or fresh berries, but I’ve found that the frozen didn’t set as well. Super with
grilled lamb or pork, or whatever strikes your fancy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Makes 2 cups<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 cups fresh blueberries<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 cups golden raisins<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¾ cup firmly packed light brown sugar<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½ cup finely chopped crystallized ginger<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1/3 cup finely chopped yellow or white onion<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 clove garlic, crushed through a press<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> grated zest of one large lemon<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 cinnamon stick<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¼ teaspoon ground cloves<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Combine all ingredients in a
medium, heavy-bottomed, nonreactive saucepan.
Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring often to avoid scorching.
Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until very thick, 15 to
20 minutes. Cool completely.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The chutney can be prepared
up to one week ahead, covered tightly and refrigerated. For longer storage of up to 3 months,
transfer the hot chutney to sterilized canning jars, cool completely, and store
in refrigerator. </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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* * *<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>For a thorough history and discussion of balsamic vinegars and some unbiased recommendations, visit <a href="http://www.thenibble.com/">The Nibble.com</a> and just type in balsamic vinegar for access to a lengthy 3-part series. </i></span></div>
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<br /></div>Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-91680964472370173732012-05-07T13:18:00.000-07:002012-05-09T10:08:24.074-07:00Not Your Mama’s Kimchi Paste at Zy Restaurant in Salt Lake City<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">F</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span">unny how you can experience
a splendid multi-course meal with all its nuances and textures and then end up
rhapsodizing about the tiniest dab of a condiment as the pinnacle of that meal.
Or maybe it’s just me.</span></span><br />
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</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXUskusiAwsMbxtzJhc8ADjAMx0fJjiA7XRYN-4t4Z1JzeW6UYxlnAh2Y9VRCRANxU5kzFubwtV2HOwY2f8Jr16EXKg4K7YIKDGCKiF1Q-Zq3dXkjURezwZxC0mDQ1vJ5E0uyTNyzRPmF2/s1600/shot_1319063758620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXUskusiAwsMbxtzJhc8ADjAMx0fJjiA7XRYN-4t4Z1JzeW6UYxlnAh2Y9VRCRANxU5kzFubwtV2HOwY2f8Jr16EXKg4K7YIKDGCKiF1Q-Zq3dXkjURezwZxC0mDQ1vJ5E0uyTNyzRPmF2/s320/shot_1319063758620.jpg" width="320" /></span></a><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span">That’s exactly how I feel
about the mere dabs of crimson kimchi puree chef Matt Lake and his crew
developed for a seared tuna appetizer on </span><span class="Apple-style-span"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.zyrestaurant.com/">Zy’s</a></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span">
latest menu. </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span">The dish consists of a few medallions of delicate seared tuna and
a small stack of blue crab set atop a pool of silky green chili tofu puree.
Drizzled over all is a hint of lemon syrup. To the sides, the kimchi paste, or
puree, adds its come-hither, deep red color. With one little taste, it delivers
a spicy, tangy mélange of flavor that resonates as it makes you wonder just
what’s going on here. Altogether, these ingredients make brilliant music together. I could have eaten that appetizer twice, right then and there. Forget the cabbage that traditionally completes Korean
kimchi. In this instance, the spicy paste is all you want or need. </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Long after our dinner at Zy,
the impression of this truly original small plate presentation lingered. I had to have the recipe. Matt kindly shared it
-- and a little background about how the idea evolved in his kitchen: “One of my line cooks wanted to play with kimchi, so we were making a few variations. But when I tasted this paste by itself, I thought it
was pretty cool. So we refined it a little. I then thought of the tuna plate.
We worked on the composed dish, building it around this paste. I thought
it would be interesting play off the tuna and the green chili tofu for the
brightness, and the crab to help enrich the tuna.” Yep. It worked. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And, restaurant
manager Miles Broadhead’s suggestion that we pair the tuna appetizer with a
glass of the floral Boutari Moschofilero,
a lovely Greek white wine, was spot on.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj41YnqTI5QCqwx0MI94mBa6C-m9g2V40twp5PkEzyEphTs5UzdF5u4j4Grw4N3PkklsqfuMJGHH2ZtaXV2rWJjDDCp2S0q5VzIojeABsOipVV2anO7K5o8ZqcKHG2bT6MKJtLewb6nEZwS/s1600/John_McCarthy's_Idea-0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj41YnqTI5QCqwx0MI94mBa6C-m9g2V40twp5PkEzyEphTs5UzdF5u4j4Grw4N3PkklsqfuMJGHH2ZtaXV2rWJjDDCp2S0q5VzIojeABsOipVV2anO7K5o8ZqcKHG2bT6MKJtLewb6nEZwS/s320/John_McCarthy's_Idea-0001.jpg" width="208" /></a></div>
<h4>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cc0000;">Zy’s Kimchi Paste</span></span></b></h4>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chef Matthew
Lake recommends Assi brand chili flakes. I found this consumer-sized bag at the <b>Oriental Food Market </b>at 667 South 700 East in Salt Lake for about $4. At home, you might just enjoy this brilliant paste with your
own sushi grade tuna, or as a counterpoint to some fresh crab, or both.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¼ cup coarse Korean chili flakes</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 cloves garlic<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¼ small yellow onion<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½ unripe pear<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">¼ Fuji apple<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">½ cup rice vinegar<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Salt
to taste<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Combine
all ingredients in a blender and puree until smooth. Season with salt to taste,
place in an airtight container and refrigerate overnight to allow flavors to
develop.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Matt shared the recipe for
the entire dish, but I’m just posting the paste. If you want the full recipe, including
the green chili tofu puree and lemon syrup, I’d be happy to share it.
Just leave a comment with your email address. </i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-74396612313855846182012-05-03T06:01:00.000-07:002012-05-08T13:02:07.531-07:00Cookbooks and Condiments<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I’ve been collecting cookbooks for a long, long time. I read them in bed,
on vacation, and usually, when I cook. They’re falling off of shelves, stacked
on tables and the floor, and occasionally making themselves more useful by serving
other purposes.</span></div>
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<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-bottom: 6px; padding-left: 6px; padding-right: 6px; padding-top: 6px; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Zk1Rx-Cn8ZLgwRgsvb-GyqaGfXNFIUY75QKGuk1U0XLioKsdBQa5RIWoRCxaBkL_-XtpzZH2NOpua_gA7azwpAdsjyI0wU6e5u-ZhwEEAddr8zNAblDyk1cjHAxTPxQeTf_PwMHo2p4M/s1600/get-attachment.aspx.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Zk1Rx-Cn8ZLgwRgsvb-GyqaGfXNFIUY75QKGuk1U0XLioKsdBQa5RIWoRCxaBkL_-XtpzZH2NOpua_gA7azwpAdsjyI0wU6e5u-ZhwEEAddr8zNAblDyk1cjHAxTPxQeTf_PwMHo2p4M/s320/get-attachment.aspx.jpeg" width="215" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Photographer<a href="http://www.johnmccarthyphoto.com/"> John McCarthy's</a> solution<br />to being too tall for his monitor.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihpv4s8co0Ohc04el4YuWwmWaDUo4xrywIortMLKEMgMnG56HGafdTpFMinNHleijFAiiaVbvUQ95t0qUJarB9KZYWS0RN5eUoTyG81BkCB4UNxarMSnbDiDF7vsAX1jJiHfLcFNHGckHr/s1600/California+the+Beautiful.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihpv4s8co0Ohc04el4YuWwmWaDUo4xrywIortMLKEMgMnG56HGafdTpFMinNHleijFAiiaVbvUQ95t0qUJarB9KZYWS0RN5eUoTyG81BkCB4UNxarMSnbDiDF7vsAX1jJiHfLcFNHGckHr/s320/California+the+Beautiful.jpg" width="244" /></span></a><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I’ve got big coffee table books and tiny tomes. Out-of-print and
just-off-the-press. Some with a sprinkling of pen and ink drawings, some with
photography so graphic and bold it's akin to food porn. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Speaking of salacious
photos, many moons ago I wrote the lengthy text for this lushly photographed, oversized cookbook
with recipes by <a href="http://ginahyams.com/blog/2010/08/14/pie-interview-john-phillip-carroll-on-the-allure-of-pie-baking-with-james-beard-the-importance-of-texture-and-his-pie-tattoo/">John Phillip Carroll</a>. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We had to fight the publishers to get our names on the cover of the book
since it was ‘work for hire.’ But we prevailed and it turned out to be one of
the most popular of the Beautiful series. Now I see it’s out of print, with "new" copies going
for some <a href="http://tinyurl.com/7ydttj4">pretty pennies on Amazon</a>.<b> </b>Fortunately, you can also pick it up <a href="http://www.alibris.com/booksearch?qwork=10529842&cm_sp=rec-_-RHS-_-p1-0">for a song</a>.<b> </b>I suspect the "new" price has skyrocketed because
few publishers can afford to do this kind of photography any more. Plus, it is
a terrific book. John is a brilliant, precise recipe developer and cook – as humble as he
is talented. It takes him a while to get around to telling you that he was a protege of James Beard, Marion Cunningham, Flo Braker, and so many other baking luminaries -- and that he has gone on to write all kinds of award-winning books. Working with him was one of the highlights of my career. If you
can find a used copy of our book, get it. And don’t be afraid to take it into the kitchen and let the splatters fall where they may. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The book covers 12 regions of the state and ties its culinary history to the geography and the progression through Spanish ranchos and missions to the Gold Rush, the advent of transcontinental trains, the backyard barbecue craze, and on to the debut of Chez Panisse. Researching and writing the 20,000 word text (I know! Insane.) was one of the most rewarding jobs I ever had. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As you might figure, the chapter on <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #bf9000;">Condiments and Preserves</span> was among my
favorites. There are pickled peaches, grape and rhubarb conserve,
honey and red wine figs and mushroom relish. Flavored vinegars, lots of jams and marmalades, too. And that just skims the surface. Here's one of the easier recipes. It takes a while, but most of that is non-active time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: red;">Red Pepper Marmalade</span> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">from <i>California
the Beautiful Cookbook<span class="Apple-style-span"><o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This so
good it will surprise you. Cardinal red and quite sweet, pepper marmalade is
good with cold sliced beef and pork and also as a spread for crackers, with a
soft goat cheese. This recipe yields a manageable amount that can be stored in
the refrigerator for up to several weeks, so you do not have to fuss with
sterilized jars and water bath processing. <o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2-1/2 lbs. red bell peppers (capsicums)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 tablespoon salt<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 cup cider vinegar<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 cups sugar<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stem and seed the peppers and put them through the coarse blade of a
grinder, or chop them coarsely in a food processor (take care not to puree
them). Toss with the salt and let them stand for 2 hours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Drain and discard any accumulated juices and combine the peppers in a
saucepan with the vinegar and sugar. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour, stirring
now and then. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Let the marmalade cool to room temperature, then store, tightly covered
in the refrigerator. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-1067021324636954612012-04-30T06:35:00.001-07:002012-04-30T15:22:28.967-07:00Recipe for Mosiah Sauce from Faustina Restaurant in Salt Lake City<div style="text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></i><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Mosiah</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">. The name dance</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">s softly
on the tongue. And guess what? So does Mosiah sauce, a creamy avocado condiment
with the rush of fresh cilantro and a kick of lime. At Salt Lake City’s </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.faustinaslc.com/">Faustina</a></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> restaurant, Mosiah Sauce is
the namesake of sauté chef, Mosiah Guerrero. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">According
to Billy Sotelo, the restaurant’s
executive chef, it landed on the regular menu as a result of a “<u><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Off-Menu-Staff-Americas-Restaurants/dp/1599621029/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1335750936&sr=1-2-fkmr1">family meal”</a></u> -- a wonderful restaurant
tradition in which various staff members cook for the crew, before or after a
shift. “When it was Mosiah’s turn to make a quick breakfast family meal, he
made <i><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MswtLoBsKU">capachas</a></i>
[Venezuelan street food -- a
corn pancake served with soft mozzarella-like cheese] and served them with a
sauce that was a surprise to my palate and instantly sparked an idea for brunch,”
Sotelo told me. Good call, Billy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU49_QoKbiQdAL3zCZ125CkenkdIneLHaASjJkd9c6oz1R3L0iXMP-GqiE9Q9ZJqe3xGNYFvQC_nm1lZ0HWNrP0_LVKMQU1t6PqmIO3X1hs5TZ3jJ49XP3UCds68pt00OnhO3kk3bvh7cG/s1600/Faustina_Black_Forest_Ham_Puff_Pastry.smjpg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU49_QoKbiQdAL3zCZ125CkenkdIneLHaASjJkd9c6oz1R3L0iXMP-GqiE9Q9ZJqe3xGNYFvQC_nm1lZ0HWNrP0_LVKMQU1t6PqmIO3X1hs5TZ3jJ49XP3UCds68pt00OnhO3kk3bvh7cG/s320/Faustina_Black_Forest_Ham_Puff_Pastry.smjpg.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Like
all great condiments and sauces, Mosiah is a game changer. Sotelo serves the
pale green sauce with his Black Forest ham and eggs, an egg and puff pastry brunch entrée.
This welcome change from traditional eggs Benedict (as is the Faustina Benedict
made with polenta and Italian sausage) is a veritable pillow of goodness, with
melting jarlsburg cheese oozing out from beneath a runny-yolk (preferably, in
my opinion) egg. The sauce also shows up with the bacon and egg cheeseburger. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Mosiah
and Billy kindly shared their recipe. I’ll share this: You can also spread it in or over quesadillas, spicy grilled shrimp, and on eggs any way.
It also makes a great condiment for chicken or lamb satays. And I have no doubt you can find some other
excellent ways to consume this simple pleasure. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Meanwhile,
dining at Faustina is a pleasure at any meal – weekend brunch, lunch, or
dinner. A modern neighborhood restaurant with some big-city pizazz, it also has
a great little patio. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Mosiah
Sauce<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">1 cup Sour Cream<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">1 Clove garlic<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">½ Red Onion<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">½ Red Bell Pepper <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">½ Yellow Bell Pepper<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">½ Jalapeno Pepper<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">1 Avocado<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">1 cup Cilantro<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">1 lime - Juiced<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Salt to taste<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Directions<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Combine
all ingredients<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Puree
until smooth in blender<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Adjust flavors with salt and lime juice</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>From time to time I'll be sharing notes on house-made condiments from favorite restaurants. If you have one, let me know.</i></span></div>Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-19725636037303512982012-04-24T11:29:00.000-07:002012-04-30T15:23:13.423-07:00Anchovy Paste and Recipe for Anchovy Butter<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDyUR-GdL6TNO-Be_e2hHDwDI5jLM59kAET2QTHhvoByzP_oZM-caNXMRymNZZQHeq46JzAd82zMGsbiu-hRtbARy-rgjIQ1eBgEH3CEYBjXCZf5MC5xxP9K78F-3158F1aPmaQBrZ1WML/s1600/Anchovy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDyUR-GdL6TNO-Be_e2hHDwDI5jLM59kAET2QTHhvoByzP_oZM-caNXMRymNZZQHeq46JzAd82zMGsbiu-hRtbARy-rgjIQ1eBgEH3CEYBjXCZf5MC5xxP9K78F-3158F1aPmaQBrZ1WML/s320/Anchovy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As far as I’m concerned, anchovy paste exists so that I can make anchovy butter. It’s practically all I do with tubes of the purple-y stuff in toothpaste-style tubes. Though, of course, there’s a whole world of anchovy paste-friendly ideas out there. You can even just eat it straight. But it's better in butter. </span><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: purple;"><br /></span></span></b><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: purple;">Thank You, Julia</span></span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I know, it was a few years ago, but
from the moment Meryl Streep stepped out into the Parisian sunshine as Julia
Child in the film </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Julie and Julia</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">,
you knew she was channeling the legend herself and relishing every last bite.
Thank goodness. I admit I was worried we
might be subjected to a caricature, but happily I was wrong. With each gesture,
sigh and flip of the whisk, Streep showed us that, deep in her big, beautiful
bones, Julia knew that f</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">ood matters</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Mastering the Art of French Cooking</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, her</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">first cookbook, was born in Paris and published in America in
1961. Beautifully detailed, far from politically correct, and blissfully
unconcerned with calories and fat, it still stands as a masterpiece. And the
more we learn about Julia, the more we love the woman who had the most
wonderful love affair with her husband </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">and</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
with the art of cooking. She was a force to reckon with but she also remained
humble, all her life. I recall sitting in a food writing seminar in San
Francisco, more than 25 years ago, and guess who sat right behind me. Actually
taking notes! As if she had anything to learn, I thought. Then I came to my
senses. One of the most beautiful aspects of studying food and wine is that no
one can ever know it all.. We are all always still learning – that’s the beauty
of it. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Butter<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">,</i> of course, played a starring role in Julia's life —in her books, on her classic
television shows, and in the movie. As
she always said, “You can never have too much butter…” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So I leave you with one of her
simpler recipes—a heady anchovy butter.
She advises serving it over broiled fish, adding to egg fillings, sandwiches,
and sauces. You can also just slather it on toasted baguette slices and enjoy with
glass of chilled Champagne and a copy of her dreamy memoir, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">My Life In France.<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: purple;">Julia Child’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Beurre d’Anchois</i>:
</span><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One-half cup butter, 2 T mashed canned anchovies or 1 T anchovy paste;
pepper, lemon juice to taste; optional 1 to 2 T minced parsley or mixed green
herbs. Cream the butter well. A half teaspoon at a time, beat in the anchovies
or anchovies paste. Season to taste with pepper, drops of lemon juice, and
optional herbs<i>. Bon appétit!</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><br /></i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Lots m<a href="http://tinyurl.com/c5smnww">ore on anchovies</a> and a link to Bonchovie (why didn't I think of that?!) in NYC.</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><br /></i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><br /></i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><br /></i></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>* * *</i></span></div>
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<br /></div>Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-50343203340024443182012-04-24T10:51:00.002-07:002012-04-30T15:24:07.205-07:00Preserved Lemons<div style="text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Hello, bright
yellow orbs of amplified flavor.</i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The time-honored
process of cutting and packing fresh lemons into a jar with salt and fresh
lemon juice and letting them mellow is an ingenious technique perfected
centuries ago.But I’ve found that a lot of people aren’t quite sure what to
make of them. So, here are the basics: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A key
ingredient and condiment in Indian and North African cooking for centuries, the
intense flavor of preserved lemons lends itself to all kinds of dishes and
drinks. Their texture is soft and pliable, with the taste of lemon heightened
by the salt, yet softened by the gentle pickling process. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mainly, the
peel of a preserved lemon is the star, but the flesh and the brine are also
good in various incarnations (dirty martinis, anyone?). Some people rinse them
before using, some don’t. It depends on how much salt you like. I think it’s
best to just take a small bite first. If you like it, leave it as is. If not,
rinse and pat dry. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Since discovering
these lovely morsels, I’ve always tried to make my own so I could call on them
at a moment’s notice. But, I’ve been slacking and found myself searching for
some commercially packed lemons to meet an immediate craving. Happily, it
wasn’t that hard to track them down.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghmnqDKoR8uzhExJlShOwEDyEU94jEJBfbEQaQUknlHH-1p2fV7UEFzUBxpd4le8bsLvzWj9vYzYRKoVwwA-GSpWQ0MtHi4YatHLZREzwZ9EBR5vx4ZI4RJVzB9Cjj1V1uNzwyhO1-NPpL/s1600/Preserved_Lemons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghmnqDKoR8uzhExJlShOwEDyEU94jEJBfbEQaQUknlHH-1p2fV7UEFzUBxpd4le8bsLvzWj9vYzYRKoVwwA-GSpWQ0MtHi4YatHLZREzwZ9EBR5vx4ZI4RJVzB9Cjj1V1uNzwyhO1-NPpL/s320/Preserved_Lemons.jpg" width="256" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.moulinsmahjoub.com/">Les Moulins Mahjoub</a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> lemons beckoned
from a display shelf the second I walked into </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.libertyheightsfresh.com/">Liberty Heights Fresh</a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, a small but epic specialty foods store in Salt Lake City.
They’re also available at </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.williamssonoma.com/">Williams Sonoma</a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> and at
any number of food outlets around the world. I liked the small size and the
addition of a crimson pepper in this jar. The pepper didn’t affect the flavor
all that much, but visually, it’s a great flourish.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You can do
all kinds of things with preserved lemon peel:</span></div>
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<ul>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chop
and sauté with broccoli raab or any vegetable you think could benefit from a
bit of salty lemon – carrots to squash. </span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Serve
slivered peel alongside smoked salmon or trout and capers.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chop
and toss with cooked, chopped Swiss chard, orzo drizzled with olive oil, and
freshly ground black pepper, all to taste.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finely
chop with parsley and shallot and blend into soft butter to melt atop cooked
fish.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stuff
slivers under chicken skin with garlic, rosemary and thyme before roasting.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Season
couscous, rice, soups and stews.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chop
fine and swirl into mayonnaise for dipping artichokes.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Drop
a wedge into a Bloody Mary or a sliver with some brine into an icy martini.
Drink, then gobble up the preserved lemon as you would an olive.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If
you’re feeling adventurous, or if you already know the joys of a drizzle of
olive oil and salt on vanilla gelato, try substituting a sprinkle of chopped
preserved lemon. </span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And
don’t forget to eat some right out of the jar.</span></li>
</ul>
</div>
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</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
</span><br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: orange; font-size: large;">Preserved Lemons With Shallots and Garlic</span><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here’s a
quick and easy recipe my friend Lesley shared by way of New York chef <a href="http://www.craftrestaurantsinc.com/">Tom Colicchio</a>, a chef who seems to have a penchant for
citrus and therefore, a chef after my own heart. If you have organic lemons,
you can skip step one. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With the
addition of shallots and garlic, this version of preserved lemons takes on a
sort of ‘relish’ quality, which is delicious. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">12 lemons<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5 shallots,
peeled and minced <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">6 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2/3 cup kosher salt<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1/3 cup sugar <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Extra virgin olive oil<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Plunge the
lemons into boiling water to soften the outer layer of wax. Drain, rinse and
wipe off the waxy reside. Dry the lemons.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Slice lemons
very thin; discard ends and seeds. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Combine the
shallots with the garlic. Mix the salt with the sugar. Arrange a layer of lemon
slices in the bottom of a medium ceramic or glass- lidded container. Sprinkle
the lemons first with some of the shallot mixture, then with a little of the
salt mixture. Repeat, until the final lemon slices are toped with the last of
the salt and the shallot mixture. Cover the container and refrigerate for 3
days. Pack into jars, cover with olive oil and store in refrigerator for up to
a month. (And don’t forget to use that
lemony olive oil in your favorite salad dressings.) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3849483182781401973.post-50805350723721544102012-04-12T10:09:00.000-07:002012-04-30T15:24:41.355-07:00Amour Spreads<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ3FmIF40rAKxSS0BLG0v4ej_JHKIJFZlY0nm8uVp_O2gJOTZEhgViPFLGaBFRwC7oEpYX9EWQFt65EJmVurwvsU4MaC8o0gZ27aop6jtRrO7m4tG_ScGnbgwjcAYAYQZJdVVyt7aGuW-W/s1600/Amour_Spoon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ3FmIF40rAKxSS0BLG0v4ej_JHKIJFZlY0nm8uVp_O2gJOTZEhgViPFLGaBFRwC7oEpYX9EWQFt65EJmVurwvsU4MaC8o0gZ27aop6jtRrO7m4tG_ScGnbgwjcAYAYQZJdVVyt7aGuW-W/s200/Amour_Spoon.jpg" width="183" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Who doesn’t
love jams and marmalades? Mason jars lovingly filled by friends and family, or
by you. Local concoctions from the Farmer’s Markets. French <i>confitures</i>. Good old Smucker’s
raspberry. Those tiny jars that come with hotel room service. I’ll take them all. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But it’s a
shame these sweet – and sometimes savory -- spreads are usually relegated to
toast and biscuits, muffins and the occasional dab on a cracker with cheese. (Not
that there’s anything wrong with that.)</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Which brings
me to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Amour Spreads,</b> lovingly made in Salt
Lake City. On a chilly night last November, <a href="http://pagoslc.com/">Pago Restaurant</a> hosted a
reception to introduce Amour Spreads with a menu of inspired presentations. I became an instant fan. And, it was a pleasure to meet the
makers, Casee and John Francis, gardeners extraordinaire and the nicest people ever. Together, they have
created a knockout line of jewel-like jams and marmalades.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That night
we had our choice of 17 different flavors. Each was tempting in its
own right, often with the subtlest of flavors melding together to seduce and
draw you back for another taste. Think
Pear Lavender, Apricot Rose, and Savory Heirloom Tomato Jam, and the ring-a-ding-ding of Cranberry Orange Marmalade. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Find them in Utah at <a href="http://caputosdeli.com/">Caputo’s Market & Deli</a>, <a href="http://libertyheightsfresh.com/">Liberty Heights Fresh</a>, <a href="http://calisnaturalfoods.com/">Cali’s</a>, and the <a href="http://beehivecheese.com/">Beehive Cheese Creamery Store</a>, the <a href="http://deervalley.com/">Deer Valley Market and Café</a>, online at <a href="http://amourspreads.com/">Amour Spreads</a> or local Utah food purveyor, <a href="http://cahootal.com/">Cahootal</a>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Amour
Spreads Blackberry Jam and Pago house made pate on crostini was a classic. Find
the rest of Pago’s tasting event menu on Amour’s Website. </i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="clear: left; float: left; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX2wWCyvhtOWJbFayzzYGMsCIF4USXMsEcdfX2HzrjgNSaa3NP0oUqTqkm-YPsflsI0VYr7LcR6D2RPx3IAexptKl46aEi4g3jo7uSQWF1MbFQMuvDOt5lQX7w8vnB-1JKFmVmU2E6WQuO/s200/Amour_jar.jpg" width="155" /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>This is my (now empty) jar of Savory Heirloom Tomato Jam. I love a spoonful of it on top of soft
scrambled eggs swirled with cheddar cheese.
</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Casee and
John grow and/or hand pick their produce and herbs. Fortunately, they have west
coast friends with citrus groves! Look for these new marmalades, just released for Spring 2012. My favorite is the lilting, lightly floral Meyer Lemon-Rose Geranium. Blood Orange-Meyer Lemon is divine on its own or shaken in a good Manhattan. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Blood
Orange-Meyer Lemon <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Blood
Orange-Rosemary <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Meyer
Lemon-Rose Geranium<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pomegranate
Citrus<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tangelo<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Grapefruit<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">About all the love-spreading: Amour donates a percentage of its sales to a variety of local causes, detailed on their site. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">XOXX</span></div>
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<br /></div>Virginia Raineyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18062430779441709012noreply@blogger.com0