Dusky Honey, Watermelon Jam, & Fig Mostarda

It’s sort of been like Christmas in October as I’ve had the opportunity to taste more extraordinary condiments from the Lake Garda region of Italy, via Laney Sachs and her online import shop, Ortensia Blu. Last week it was all about Mostarda Senepata. Here are a few more hard-to-find delicacies she's gathered. All would make great gifts. But if I were you, I'd order some to keep, too. 

Dusky (in a beautiful way) Honey

Ortensia Blu offers this romantic description for Miele del garda Bresciano also known as Melata: “Honeydew (Melata) Honey is named after the beads of nectar that glisten in the morning dew.” 

The thing is, that “morning dew” comes not from the nectar of wildflower blossoms, but from sap. This sap is a result, as one source put it, of “a splendid team effort involving bees and other insects. As they pierce the bark of fir and chestnut trees (among others) they release the essence of the tree—known as the melata,” spreading it over the surrounding flowers and leaves. The bees collect this sap with its aromatic, dusky character and high mineral content and transform it into this rare, highly prized honey. 

Dark amber, it has a lusty, molasses-y flavor profile. Enjoy it as you would enjoy any great honey. I actually like it on oatmeal, and it’s a classic with figs (roasted or not) and cheese for dessert.

A Most Unusual Jam

Conserva de Anguria Bianca is a watermelon jam. New to me, its flavor sits on the border of earthy and refreshing. Light and delicate, the jam resonates with the flavor of summer melon, but it’s not overly sweet. I found myself fantasizing about spreading it between layers of a vanilla poppyseed cake. It would also shine on biscuits or cornbread.

Beyond its flavor, what might strike you most about this shimmering, translucent green jam is the appearance of slippery red watermelon seeds suspended in the jar. I don’t suppose it would hurt you to swallow them, but I kind of like rolling them around my mouth and then letting them fly out over the deck when I’m alone. In “polite” (a rare occurrence in my world) company I would simply let them slide back onto a spoon or into my napkin. If you spread the jam on toast or whatever, you would, of course, remove the seeds. But the fact that the producer left them in the jam makes me really happy.

Mostarda de Fichi

Completely different in form and color from the firm jelly-like Mostarda Senepata in last week’s post, this spicy/sweet mostarda is what I think of when I think of the idea of “adult” sugarplums dancing in my head. Divine.

Petite white figs are suspended in a lemony yellow syrup and the flavor is a cross between spicy/hot and sweet. Traditionally, mostardas are served with “boiled meats” – something that always comes up in references but doesn’t really sound all that good. I like them with cheeses, of course – on a platter with salty cured meats, and with grilled meats of any kind. I could also see enjoying this particular fig mostarda with nicely caramelized roasted vegetables, such as carrots or Brussels sprouts. I’d drizzle a bit of the syrup on the veg’s and sprinkled chopped fig over them – not too much, just enough to get the occasional bite.

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Slide Ridge Honey Vinegar and CaCysir Honey Wine

Yes, I live in Utah, the Beehive State. You’d think that our state symbol, the beehive, might have something to do with honey, but no. It’s all about early pioneer industry. The thing is, Utah is not really a major player in honey production – not by a long shot.

That’s not to say we don’t have some exceptional honey here in the Beehive State. In fact, we may be home to some of the finest raw honey produced anywhere if you consider Slide Ridge Honey of Mendon, Utah. It's a small family operation that has recently expanded to offer a brilliant Honey Wine Vinegar and a just-released CaCysir Honey Wine. (pronounced ka--SIGH-sir - the Ca is for Cache Valley, where Slide Ridge resides. Cysir is a unique spelling for cyser, apple and honey wine)

Last week I was lucky enough to be a part of a farm tour hosted by Talisker and its executive chef, John Murcko. We covered more than 300 miles visiting some of northern Utah’s purveyors of local goods. Along the way, Slide Ridge Honey master Martin James and his family hosted us for their “daily staff lunch,” a magical homemade interlude served next to a garden, under shade trees just a stone’s throw from pallets of honey and vats of soon-to-be  honey wine.

They dished up soft fresh rolls with a silky, runny honey butter, a salad with Slide Ridge Honey Vinegar dressing and then plates of pot roast, carrots and mashed potatoes. And for dessert, poached pears, homemade salted caramel ice cream and glasses of viscous, amber Slide Ridge CaCysir Honey Wine, just released.  Look at those gorgeous legs.

CaCysir is a 100% local blend of juices from seven select apple varieties, perfectly clean honey, and a hint of grapes. At 13.65% alcohol, it also has a crisp acidity. To me, it evokes a bit of tart tatin rather than basic apple pie - quite extraordinary. Here’s what they say on the label:

The wine, priced just under $25, has just been released in a few of Utah’s state run liquor stores, including: Snow Creek (Park City); Logan, Ogden-Wall St.; Holladay; Springville; and Hurricane. BUT, I encourage you to ask for – OK, demand it? -- it at every big state wine and liquor store you visit – if this is your sort of delight. The supply is not huge, but the demand ought to be. 

As for condiments, Slide Ridge’s Honey Wine Vinegar is more widely available. A balance of sweet and tang, it is, of course, great as salad dressing but also consider tossing a tablespoon over a bowl of oven-roasted, caramelized Brussels sprouts or  deglazing a pan after browning pork chops, or head to The Farm or Bistro at Canyons and find out what magic Talisker chefs are creating with it this summer. 

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