Random Shopping @ Black Cherry Market

Most people go grocery shopping with a list.  That’s pretty basic, since it tends to help ward off the sticker shock that comes with binges of impulse shopping.  And of course it’s worse when you shop hungry. But sometimes, I go list-less anyway. Like I just did on my first visit to Black Cherry Market in Salt Lake City, a store you should know about if you love condiments and other delicious surprises.

Open for about a year, this little Mediterranean market is a clean, well-lighted place with wide aisles and a really nice vibe and, no sticker shock.

Here’s some of what I ended up with – totally random, starting with two condiments.

Ararat Rose-Petal Preserves from Armenia. The frilly pink label tied over the lid of the fat little jar was irresistible. I can’t wait to try the fragrant, sugary preserves on some old-fashioned biscuits, or a croissant. Maybe with some rosé and goat cheese. 

Coriander Chutney. A staple at Indian restaurants everywhere, this seaweed green blend of cilantro leaves, green chili, ginger, coconut, lemon juice, and cumin is a condiment staple. Great on lamb burgers or alongside roasted lamb or chicken, super with a grilled steak, or swirled into hot basmati rice or into plain Greek yogurt for a really good vegetable dip.

Hearts of Palm in a jar. I know. Don’t get too excited.  But really, they are not that easy to find. The tin-can version tastes of tin. I can’t wait to make the hearts of palm salad with blood orange from The Canal House Cookbook No. 6.

Mashti Malone’s Pistachio Saffron Ice Cream (and other flavors). From the famed Mashti Malone’s at Sunset and LaBrea in LA, this is a find in Salt Lake City. Creamy, herbal and really good. 

Two pounds of plump, preservative-free, pitted Deglet Noor dates were just $6. Perfect for a party appetizer if you wrap each date in a band of prosciutto. Sizzle under a broiler for a few minutes (watching carefully), turning once with tongs. Stick a sturdy wooden toothpick in each one while they’re hot and pass them around. Sweet, salty, simple (like Devil's on Horseback, the easy version).

In search of pomegranate molasses? Black Cherry carries several brands and that link will take you to all kinds of recipes with this staple of Mediterranean cooking.  

Black Cherry also carries Halal meats and Canyon Meadows Ranch grass-fed beef from Altamont, UT. 

Told you, this was random. 

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Cookbooks and Condiments

I’ve been collecting cookbooks for a long, long time. I read them in bed, on vacation, and usually, when I cook. They’re falling off of shelves, stacked on tables and the floor, and occasionally making themselves more useful by serving other purposes.

Photographer John McCarthy's solution
to being too tall for his monitor.

I’ve got big coffee table books and tiny tomes. Out-of-print and just-off-the-press. Some with a sprinkling of pen and ink drawings, some with photography so graphic and bold it's akin to food porn. Speaking of salacious photos, many moons ago I wrote the lengthy text for this lushly photographed, oversized cookbook with recipes by John Phillip Carroll. 

We had to fight the publishers to get our names on the cover of the book since it was ‘work for hire.’ But we prevailed and it turned out to be one of the most popular of the Beautiful series. Now I see it’s out of print, with "new" copies going for some pretty pennies on Amazon. Fortunately, you can also pick it up for a song. I suspect the "new" price has skyrocketed  because few publishers can afford to do this kind of photography any more. Plus, it is a terrific book. John is a brilliant, precise recipe developer and cook – as humble as he is talented. It takes him a while to get around to telling you that he was a protege of James Beard, Marion Cunningham, Flo Braker, and so many other baking luminaries -- and that he has gone on to write all kinds of award-winning books. Working with him was one of the highlights of my career. If you can find a used copy of our book, get it. And don’t be afraid to take it into the kitchen and let the splatters fall where they may. 

The book covers 12 regions of the state and ties its culinary history to the geography and the progression through Spanish ranchos and missions to the Gold Rush, the advent of transcontinental trains, the backyard barbecue craze, and on to the debut of Chez Panisse. Researching and writing the 20,000 word text (I know! Insane.) was one of the most rewarding jobs I ever had. 

As you might figure, the chapter on Condiments and Preserves was among my favorites. There are pickled peaches, grape and rhubarb conserve, honey and red wine figs and mushroom relish. Flavored vinegars, lots of jams and marmalades, too. And that just skims the surface. Here's one of the easier recipes. It takes a while, but most of that is non-active time. 

Red Pepper Marmalade 

from California the Beautiful Cookbook

This so good it will surprise you. Cardinal red and quite sweet, pepper marmalade is good with cold sliced beef and pork and also as a spread for crackers, with a soft goat cheese. This recipe yields a manageable amount that can be stored in the refrigerator for up to several weeks, so you do not have to fuss with sterilized jars and water bath processing.

2-1/2 lbs. red bell peppers (capsicums)

1  tablespoon salt

1  cup cider vinegar

2  cups sugar

Stem and seed the peppers and put them through the coarse blade of a grinder, or chop them coarsely in a food processor (take care not to puree them). Toss with the salt and let them stand for 2 hours.

Drain and discard any accumulated juices and combine the peppers in a saucepan with the vinegar and sugar. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour, stirring now and then.

Let the marmalade cool to room temperature, then store, tightly covered in the refrigerator.

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