Spicy Balsamic Blueberry Chutney Recipe

I’m a sucker for single-subject cookbooks. Writers obsessed with a subject are the best because, well, they are obsessed. They leave no stone unturned, no use of an ingredient unexplored. They have license to travel to the far reaches of the world in search of the source, to explore history, to find the best.

The Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook  (1996, Collins) by Meesha Halm is a case in point – a perfect one for condiment lovers. Like so many of my books, it’s out of print, but there seem to be plenty of used copies available online.

This pretty little book came out a couple of decades after the “discovery” of balsamic vinegar in the U.S. in the 1970s. You may know the story: Treasured, time-honored authentic Italian condiment becomes ubiquitous American condiment – often bastardized and cheapened, generally drizzled over fresh mozzarella, pizzas and salads everywhere. But there’s a lot more to cooking with a decent, affordable balsamic. Whether your tastes run to gazpacho, braised broccoli rape or savory Mediterranean stew, this book dishes up the recipes, including a great section on condiments, including chutney.

That was Then

A lot of us got very tired of the balsamic vinegar craze. We wanted the good stuff, but, back then could only afford the grocery store version, often called “Balsamic Vinegar of Modena” – a sorry blend of coloring and thickeners – and maybe a little wine vinegar but no actual grape must –the key ingredient in traditional balsamic. These blends are mass-produced, both in Italy and in the U.S.

But as the balsamic love continued, more American and Italian producers began making artisan versions that, while far from the authentic balsamic, are excellent for more everyday uses. Today, there are plenty of fine, affordable options out there. Bottom line, when buying balsamic vinegar priced around $25 - $35 or so, read the label carefully and look for grape must in the ingredient list, along with an indication of age.

If you’ve been lucky enough to taste the occasional drop of the real thing – aged aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena, and aceto balsamico tradizionale di Reggio Emilia, you know that at its finest, it can taste of fine old port, fig and vanilla, toffee, caramel and chocolate, resinous wood and herbs.  So complex and sensually exciting, it is often sipped from a tiny cup, all by itself. (If you’re in Salt Lake City, Liberty Heights Fresh has a whole shelf dedicated to such fine vinegars and offers some for tasting – just ask.)

 Good Compromise for Cooking

If you can afford the real thing, you’ll probably want to enjoy it on its own or with a minimum of other ingredients. But if you want to spend less than $10 on balsamic vinegar for cooking, salad dressings, or drizzling on sandwiches, Antica Italia Balsamic Vinegar is a good bet. It is made with grape must and aged in chestnut barrels, which is pretty amazing for the price. At Caupto's Deli in Salt Lake City, it's the vinegar of choice for some fine sandwiches. 

Here are two things, beyond salad dressings, that I like to do with a less expensive, but non-industrial balsamic vinegar. One so simple it’s a little embarrassing, the other requiring a little time.

1. Pour about a cup of less expensive balsamic vinegar, such as Antica, into a non-reactive saucepan, warm slowly over low heat and let it reduce down to a syrupy consistency. Drizzle over grilled meats or fish, on a fresh pear, walnut and mache salad, or over a platter of sliced ripe figs and some aged Parmigiano Reggiano.  That last treatment is a classic for the very fine balsamic vinegars, as well.

2. Make Blueberry Chutney

Adapted from The Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook, this gorgeous take on chutney is spiced with jalapeno. The recipe called for frozen or fresh berries, but I’ve found that the frozen didn’t set as well. Super with grilled lamb or pork, or whatever strikes your fancy.

Makes 2 cups

2          cups fresh blueberries

2          cups golden raisins

¾         cup firmly packed light brown sugar

½        cup balsamic vinegar

½        cup finely chopped crystallized ginger

1/3      cup finely chopped yellow or white onion

1          jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely chopped

1          clove garlic, crushed through a press

            grated zest of one large lemon

1          cinnamon stick

¼         teaspoon ground cloves

Combine all ingredients in a medium, heavy-bottomed, nonreactive saucepan.  Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring often to avoid scorching. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until very thick, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool completely.

The chutney can be prepared up to one week ahead, covered tightly and refrigerated.  For longer storage of up to 3 months, transfer the hot chutney to sterilized canning jars, cool completely, and store in refrigerator.

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For a thorough history and discussion of balsamic vinegars and some unbiased recommendations, visit The Nibble.com and just type in balsamic vinegar for access to a lengthy 3-part series. 

Preserved Lemons

Hello, bright yellow orbs of amplified flavor.

The time-honored process of cutting and packing fresh lemons into a jar with salt and fresh lemon juice and letting them mellow is an ingenious technique perfected centuries ago.But I’ve found that a lot of people aren’t quite sure what to make of them. So, here are the basics:

A key ingredient and condiment in Indian and North African cooking for centuries, the intense flavor of preserved lemons lends itself to all kinds of dishes and drinks. Their texture is soft and pliable, with the taste of lemon heightened by the salt, yet softened by the gentle pickling process.

Mainly, the peel of a preserved lemon is the star, but the flesh and the brine are also good in various incarnations (dirty martinis, anyone?). Some people rinse them before using, some don’t. It depends on how much salt you like. I think it’s best to just take a small bite first. If you like it, leave it as is. If not, rinse and pat dry.

Since discovering these lovely morsels, I’ve always tried to make my own so I could call on them at a moment’s notice. But, I’ve been slacking and found myself searching for some commercially packed lemons to meet an immediate craving. Happily, it wasn’t that hard to track them down.

Les Moulins Mahjoub lemons beckoned from a display shelf the second I walked into Liberty Heights Fresh, a small but epic specialty foods store in Salt Lake City. They’re also available at Williams Sonoma and at any number of food outlets around the world. I liked the small size and the addition of a crimson pepper in this jar. The pepper didn’t affect the flavor all that much, but visually, it’s a great flourish.

You can do all kinds of things with preserved lemon peel:

• Chop and sauté with broccoli raab or any vegetable you think could benefit from a bit of salty lemon – carrots to squash.  
• Serve slivered peel alongside smoked salmon or trout and capers.
• Chop and toss with cooked, chopped Swiss chard, orzo drizzled with olive oil, and freshly ground black pepper, all to taste.
• Finely chop with parsley and shallot and blend into soft butter to melt atop cooked fish.
• Stuff slivers under chicken skin with garlic, rosemary and thyme before roasting.
• Season couscous, rice, soups and stews.
• Chop fine and swirl into mayonnaise for dipping artichokes.
• Drop a wedge into a Bloody Mary or a sliver with some brine into an icy martini. Drink, then gobble up the preserved lemon as you would an olive.
• If you’re feeling adventurous, or if you already know the joys of a drizzle of olive oil and salt on vanilla gelato, try substituting a sprinkle of chopped preserved lemon. 
• And don’t forget to eat some right out of the jar.

Preserved Lemons With Shallots and Garlic

Here’s a quick and easy recipe my friend Lesley shared by way of New York chef Tom Colicchio, a chef who seems to have a penchant for citrus and therefore, a chef after my own heart. If you have organic lemons, you can skip step one.

With the addition of shallots and garlic, this version of preserved lemons takes on a sort of ‘relish’ quality, which is delicious.

12        lemons

5          shallots, peeled and minced

6          garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

2/3      cup kosher salt

1/3      cup sugar

            Extra virgin olive oil

Plunge the lemons into boiling water to soften the outer layer of wax. Drain, rinse and wipe  off the waxy reside. Dry the lemons.

Slice lemons very thin; discard ends and seeds.

Combine the shallots with the garlic. Mix the salt with the sugar. Arrange a layer of lemon slices in the bottom of a medium ceramic or glass- lidded container. Sprinkle the lemons first with some of the shallot mixture, then with a little of the salt mixture. Repeat, until the final lemon slices are toped with the last of the salt and the shallot mixture. Cover the container and refrigerate for 3 days. Pack into jars, cover with olive oil and store in refrigerator for up to a month.  (And don’t forget to use that lemony olive oil in your favorite salad dressings.)

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Amour Spreads

Who doesn’t love jams and marmalades? Mason jars lovingly filled by friends and family, or by you. Local concoctions from the Farmer’s Markets. French confitures. Good old Smucker’s raspberry. Those tiny jars that come with hotel room service.  I’ll take them all.

But it’s a shame these sweet – and sometimes savory -- spreads are usually relegated to toast and biscuits, muffins and the occasional dab on a cracker with cheese. (Not that there’s anything wrong with that.)

Which brings me to Amour Spreads, lovingly made in Salt Lake City. On a chilly night last November, Pago Restaurant hosted a reception to introduce Amour Spreads with a menu of inspired presentations. I became an instant fan. And, it was a pleasure to meet the makers, Casee and John Francis, gardeners extraordinaire and the nicest people ever. Together, they have created a knockout line of jewel-like jams and marmalades.

That night we had our choice of 17 different flavors. Each was tempting in its own right, often with the subtlest of flavors melding together to seduce and draw you back for another taste. Think Pear Lavender, Apricot Rose, and Savory Heirloom Tomato Jam, and the ring-a-ding-ding of Cranberry Orange Marmalade.

Find them in Utah at Caputo’s Market & Deli, Liberty Heights Fresh, Cali’s, and the Beehive Cheese Creamery Store, the Deer Valley Market and Café, online at Amour Spreads or local Utah food purveyor, Cahootal.

Amour Spreads Blackberry Jam and Pago house made pate on crostini was a classic. Find the rest of Pago’s tasting event menu on Amour’s Website. 

This is my (now empty) jar of Savory Heirloom Tomato Jam. I love a spoonful of it on top of soft scrambled eggs swirled with cheddar cheese. 

Casee and John grow and/or hand pick their produce and herbs. Fortunately, they have west coast friends with citrus groves! Look for these new marmalades, just released for Spring 2012. My favorite is the lilting, lightly floral Meyer Lemon-Rose Geranium. Blood Orange-Meyer Lemon is divine on its own or shaken in a good Manhattan. 

Blood Orange-Meyer Lemon

Blood Orange-Rosemary

Meyer Lemon-Rose Geranium

Pomegranate Citrus

Tangelo

Grapefruit

About all the love-spreading: Amour donates a percentage of its sales to a variety of local causes, detailed on their site. 

XOXX

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